Underfloor Heating Installation

The main advantage of underfloor heating is its low water temperature. While radiator heating typically requires 55–70 °C, underfloor heating operates at 30–40 °C. This means underfloor heating is particularly well-suited for use with heat pumps, condensing boilers, and solar heating – the lower the flow temperature, the better the efficiency of the heat source.

Another advantage is heat distribution. A radiator heats the air from a single point, whereas the floor heats across its entire surface, resulting in nearly uniform temperatures at foot level and ceiling level. In practice, this means the same level of comfort can be achieved with a lower ambient air temperature, and cold floors in bathrooms and hallways become a thing of the past.

However, underfloor heating is not always the sole correct solution. In rooms with very large window areas or poorly insulated old houses, underfloor heating alone may be insufficient – in such cases, we combine solutions so that the primary load is carried by underfloor heating, with auxiliary radiators in colder zones. The same applies to rooms where thick carpets or large furniture blocks are planned: covered surfaces do not release heat into the room.

• New build or comprehensive renovation where the floor will be opened anyway
• Heat source is a heat pump or condensing boiler
• Bathroom, hallway, or kitchen where a warm floor is desired
• Room where radiators interfere with interior design or window solutions
• Large open-plan area where uniform temperature is desired

The two common solutions are water underfloor heating and electric heating cables. Water underfloor heating is part of the house's heating system, with heat supplied from the same source as radiators and domestic hot water. Electric heating is independent, but its running costs are entirely dependent on electricity prices.

The rule of thumb is simple: if you need to heat an entire house or a large area, water underfloor heating is significantly cheaper in the long run. If you only need to heat a single bathroom floor and a long pipe run to a boiler or manifold would be required through a finished flat, an electric solution is more practical. We install water underfloor heating and will honestly advise if electric heating would be more beneficial for a specific property.

In apartment buildings, another factor must be considered: in a flat with a district heating system, underfloor heating should not be connected directly to the heating riser without approval, as this alters the riser's hydraulics and return temperature. For such properties, we implement a solution with a separate mixing valve and always in consultation with the apartment association.

Underfloor heating installation follows a sequence that cannot be rearranged. Each stage prepares for the next, and any skipped step will later incur multiple times the cost.

The manifold assembly determines whether underfloor heating is controllable or not. A manifold without flow meters cannot be properly balanced: heat will flow where resistance is lowest, leaving longer circuits cold. This is the most common complaint, where one room is warm and another is not.

Another important component is the mixing valve. Underfloor heating pipework cannot withstand the full temperature of the boiler or heat substation – excessively hot water damages concrete and floor coverings, and makes the floor uncomfortably hot. The mixing valve blends return water with the flow, maintaining a consistently correct temperature.

The third component is automation: room thermostats, actuators, and a control unit. These allow for maintaining a cooler temperature in the bedroom and a warmer temperature in the bathroom, and reducing heating when a room is not in use. We install both wired and wireless solutions, including systems controllable via smart apps.

• Distribution manifold with flow meters and shut-off valves
• Mixing valve and thermostatic head for maintaining flow temperature
• Circulation pump, selected according to the number and length of circuits
• Automation actuators and room thermostats for each zone
• Air vents and drain valves for maintenance

The floor covering directly affects how well heat reaches the room. Ceramic tiles and natural stone conduct heat best and are the optimal choice for underfloor heating. Vinyl and laminate are suitable if approved by the manufacturer for underfloor heating and if the surface temperature remains within permitted limits.

Wood parquet also works, but requires attention: thicker planks and low thermal conductivity mean a higher flow temperature, and overly rapid heating can cause cracks. The biggest mistake is a thick carpet covering a large part of the floor – it acts as insulation, causing the system to unnecessarily increase heating.

When planning, we also consider furniture. There's no point running heating pipes where built-in kitchen units, a bath, or a large cupboard will be located – this heat will not reach the room. Therefore, pipe spacing and circuit layout are designed in conjunction with the interior designer or owner's plans.

Most underfloor heating problems are not product defects, but installation decisions. The following errors recur year after year and all are preventable at the planning stage.

• Overly long heating circuit length – the end of the circuit remains noticeably colder
• Missing or excessively thin insulation, causing heat to go downwards
• Manifold without flow meters – circuits cannot be balanced
• Concrete not given sufficient drying time, leading to floor cracks
• System not pressure tested before concreting
• Manifold cabinet built over, preventing access for maintenance
• Flow temperature set too high, damaging the floor covering

In a flat, underfloor heating installation is always a compromise between floor height and the chosen solution. Classic concrete screed raises the floor by 6–8 cm, which isn't always permissible. In such cases, we use low-profile installation plates or grooved board solutions, which fit into a significantly thinner construction.

Another issue is connection. In a district-heated building, underfloor heating must not be connected directly to the heating riser, as this alters the entire building's hydraulics and return temperature, for which the apartment association pays. The correct solution is a separate mixing valve and approval from the association. The same applies to flats with gas boilers – a solution can be built based on the boiler's own heating circuit.

Thirdly, neighbours must be considered. Any work involving risers or water shut-off must be agreed upon with the association in advance. For apartment building projects, we typically carry out work during daytime hours when water shut-off causes minimal disruption, and we proactively inform the association of the schedule.

The cost of underfloor heating does not depend solely on square metres. The price for the same area can vary significantly depending on whether it's an empty new build or a finished flat where the old floor needs to be removed and pipes routed through multiple rooms to the manifold.

The cost is most affected by the number of heating circuits and the complexity of the manifold assembly, the density of pipe spacing, the level of automation, and whether a suitable heat source already exists on site. A small bathroom circuit is many times cheaper than a whole-house solution with a mixing valve, pump, and zone control.

We provide a quote after an on-site inspection or based on drawings, and fix it before work begins. The quote itemises material and labour costs separately, to ensure clarity on what is being paid for. The price list and general unit prices are provided on a separate page, and the exact cost always depends on the specific property.

• Heated area and number of heating circuits
• Pipe spacing – denser spacing means more material
• Manifold assembly size and level of automation
• New build or renovation within existing finishes
• Heat source and need for a mixing valve or pump
• Access to the property and timing of work

Properly installed water underfloor heating is one of the few heating methods that operates for decades with minimal attention. However, the manifold assembly does require maintenance: once a year, the system pressure should be checked, circuits bled, pump operation confirmed, and actuator movement verified.

If a room starts to feel colder, the most common causes are air in the system or shifted balancing. Both can be resolved with a single visit. In older systems, flushing may be necessary, as dirt and sediment accumulate in the pipes over time, reducing flow.

Before the heating season, it's advisable to check the system before the cold weather arrives, not on the first frosty day. The same applies to the entire heating system – boiler, heat substation, and radiator maintenance can be carried out in conjunction with underfloor heating checks during one visit.

We undertake heating system works in Tallinn and Harjumaa daily – in both new builds and renovation projects. This means we don't just install pipes; we are also responsible for ensuring the system ultimately operates at the correct temperature and evenly.

Every job begins with an inspection and calculation, and concludes with pressure testing, balancing, and handover. We use pipes, manifolds, and automation from reputable manufacturers and provide a warranty for both our workmanship and the materials we install. We issue a proper invoice suitable for submission to apartment associations or insurance companies.

If your project is still in the planning phase, it's worth contacting us before floor work begins. At that stage, you can still choose the insulation thickness, manifold location, and circuit distribution – later, these decisions will be encased in concrete.